Post by devinelyblessed on Feb 24, 2010 14:08:48 GMT -5
Hello, I'm Shawnette:
I have a 125g with a Stars and Stripe baby about 2 1/2 " and a Striped Dog face about 2'. When I got them I did the slow drip acclimation x3 over 2 1/2 hour. I kept the lights out for 2 day and they have been eating and everything was good. The Striped Dog face even came around he was the shy one. Now I have noticed about 3-4 spots each on them. I believe it is ICK I read the library article but I don't have another tank to put them in to treat. I really don't want them to dye. I was wondering if them was any other ways to treat it. I also have in the tank: several yellow polyps spread out through the whole tank, some hermit crabs, some snails, 3 gobies a blenny and a lawnmower blenny, a tomato clown. Please help.
Post by Solareclipsed on Feb 24, 2010 16:42:20 GMT -5
The bad thing about most of the meds is that they will harm the inverts in the tank. A UV light would help to stop the spread of it but they are not cheap. You could also lower your salinity but doing that in the main tank could affect other things such as the inverts and corals as well. The best option is to get another smaller tank and set it up using water out of the big tank and put them in that tank to treat.
Post by devinelyblessed on Feb 24, 2010 21:29:04 GMT -5
how small of a other tank, what kind of filtration? Are we talking about isolating the puffers? the whole fish crew? or the invert? this is going to cost isn't it? will the puffers do ok transfering since they just got here.
Post by Solareclipsed on Feb 24, 2010 21:48:02 GMT -5
Maybe a 20 gallon or 29 gallon with just a hang on filter, heater and some hiding places. Isolate any fish that has ich. The best way is make up some fresh saltwater to do a water change with and take water from the display tank to fill your quarantine tank so it is already used to the water and then add the new water to the display tank. Then slowly lower your salinity to 1.017 and leave it there for about a week or so with the temp in the tank at about 80 degrees. After this slowly raise the salinity back up and watch the fish for another week or two and if all looks good you can add them back to the display.
I would not use copper to treat the puffers as it dangerous to some fish and I believe puffers are one of those types of fish that should not be treated with copper. If the ick is not too bad you could use garlic extract in their food to help. Also low salinity would be advisable and cold be done in the tank you already have set up. If you decide to separate the fish it would be best to put them all into separate tanks as to cause less aggression. Saltwater ick is difficult to control once it is introduced to an aquarium. The best way to keep this from happening is to quarantine your fish for about two weeks before introducing them into your display tank. This way you can examine them for problems before introducing a pathogen to your whole tank.
Post by devinelyblessed on Feb 25, 2010 11:28:07 GMT -5
Someone else mentioned that fish. Are they mean like other wrasses?
I don't see any on any of them anymore. Pufferpunk ( the puffer form) said it might not be Ick if it was only a couple spots. but I got scared I got Ick on a Cichlid a couple years ago and had to totally start the whole tank over. They are eating fine ( like hogs). and no labered breathing swimming just fine. I will watch this though and I'm going to get some garlic cloves today and try to get that vitamin C supplement. I'm going to check Jomar's for that if they don't have it maybe GNC.
I bought a couple cleaner wrasses once. They worked miracles on the tangs I has who had ich. they didn't seem to be too aggressive when I had them. Problem is they are difficult to keep but they will pick parasites off your fish all day. love to watch them. I agree about the copper treatement for the puffers. Bad idea.