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Post by carb850 on Jan 9, 2011 23:14:20 GMT -5
I'm in the planning stages for a FW planted tank and plan to reuse one of the tanks I currently own. The two I'm considering include.
30G Oceanic Cube It is currently drilled for an overflow Has a beautiful stand
40G Breeder Not drilled, I would have to build a stand and no way could I do as good of a job as what I had done for the 30G cube
The sump is nice to hide equipment, keep a constant water height in the tank, add volume. However overflows are always a concern and they can lose CO2 which isn't ideal in a planted tank.
Any thoughts?
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Solareclipsed
Reef Master
[M:200]
Professional Fish killer AKA Darla
Posts: 1,630
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Post by Solareclipsed on Jan 10, 2011 1:32:02 GMT -5
Do like I did and just convert the 120. It makes an awesome planted tank because of the large floor space.
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Post by ADMIN2 on Jan 10, 2011 1:37:58 GMT -5
If you use the oceanic you could keep the 150 halide to light it, but you would'nt really need the actinics.
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Post by carb850 on Jan 10, 2011 14:48:31 GMT -5
the 120 already found a new home. It would have been a impressive planted setup but i dont want to keep up with that much and wanted to free up some room.
I thought about reusing the 150 but i fear that is too much light/without using ferts and co2.
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peyton
Sea Squirt
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Posts: 43
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Post by peyton on Jan 11, 2011 12:39:53 GMT -5
What kind of lighting do you have available for them? IMO the 30g would look better. I don't think the overflow would be a problem if your going with a low light setup. It has more depth front to back so scaping it would be easier. I wouldn't recommend using a metal halide over it unless you want to grow algae. I have a low light/tech 30g hex with two 15w fluorescent bulbs and it's been chugging along for several years.
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Post by ADMIN2 on Jan 11, 2011 13:34:49 GMT -5
What kind of lighting do you have available for them? IMO the 30g would look better. I don't think the overflow would be a problem if your going with a low light setup. It has more depth front to back so scaping it would be easier. I wouldn't recommend using a metal halide over it unless you want to grow algae. I have a low light/tech 30g hex with two 15w fluorescent bulbs and it's been chugging along for several years. I would not think the metal halide would be a problem if you have the plants to uptake the nutrients. I will see how it works at the store as we are using halides instead of t5hos that most people use. I think we will get great plant growth but I may be wrong.
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Post by carb850 on Jan 11, 2011 14:33:07 GMT -5
even if i kept the 150w pendant i would need all new bulbs. If i could sell it i could use that money foe a 70w mh pendant with a proper daylight bulb.
I have a 40w pc fixture but i fear that could be weak over 30g... 18'' deep.
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Post by carb850 on Jan 11, 2011 14:49:19 GMT -5
even if i kept the 150w pendant i would need all new bulbs. If i could sell it i could use that money foe a 70w mh pendant with a proper daylight bulb.
I have a 40w pc fixture but i fear that could be weak over 30g... 18'' deep.
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peyton
Sea Squirt
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Posts: 43
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Post by peyton on Jan 12, 2011 0:31:35 GMT -5
I would not think the metal halide would be a problem if you have the plants to uptake the nutrients. I will see how it works at the store as we are using halides instead of t5hos that most people use. I think we will get great plant growth but I may be wrong. You are introducing a LOT of energy into the tank with metal halide. This will greatly increase plant growth thereby increasing nutrient uptake and co2 consumption. The limiting factor would be nutrients and co2. Which you do not want. The limiting factor should always be light. A nutrient/co2 deficiency will almost always result in a algae outbreak. Mike I think you would be ok to use a 40 pc over the 30g if you want a low light tank. My 30g hex has only 30w of normal output fluorescent over it and its 24" tall. What kind of plants are you wanting to grow?
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Post by carb850 on Jan 15, 2011 14:56:10 GMT -5
Peyton, do you have any photos of your hex tank?
If i go with the PC fixture, I'm only at 1.33 WPG and the 70W MH is 2.33 WPG. Using my 150 would put me up to 5 WPG, more if I also used the PC that are in that same fixture. I'll probably use the 40W current fixture if I can find the legs for it. But I still reserve the right to hang a 70W MH over it. I found a place that is selling 70W pendants with 8000K bulbs which people say has a strong green spectrum and looks great over planted tanks.
Well anyhow, the purpose of this thread has been fulfilled. I will use the 30G Cube at this time. Now I still have to pick the lighting -> plants -> inferts -> fish.
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peyton
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Post by peyton on Jan 17, 2011 12:23:52 GMT -5
This is an older pic but it basically looks the same now.
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Post by carb850 on Jan 17, 2011 12:59:35 GMT -5
Thanks for posting. It looks great.
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