Post by ADMIN4 on Feb 2, 2013 11:36:06 GMT -5
Ball pythons are one of the most popular snakes to be kept as pets. They can be very rewarding as well as very easy to care for. They are known to be very docile and are very comfortable being handled compared to other snakes.
ENCLOSURES
The most important thing is to have your enclosure complete and ready when you bring your ball python home. This will ensure your snake will acclimate quickly to its new home without developing stress or health issues. That being said, there are 2 types of enclosures. The first and most popular is a terrarium. The second is a rack system using totes (mostly used by breeders). The size of your enclosure should not exceed 1 1/2 times the length of your snake. It should also not be less than 2/3 the length of the snake. Make sure your lid is secure on your enclosure. If not, they will escape.
SUBSTRATE
Most types of substrates you find in a pet shop will work just fine. The most common are reptile carpet, mulch and even newspaper. You do have to take into consideration is cleaning. When using reptile carpet, it has to be removed and cleaned thoroughly. Its best to have an extra one on hand so you can replace the dirty one with a clean one. most breeders use newspaper for its ease and availibility. I believe using aspen mulch is the way to go. You can spot clean it and being porous it will retain moisture and bolster the humidity. Remember that cedar is not a suitable bedding and is toxic to snakes.
HIDES
Like most snakes, ball pythons like dark secure places to spend most of their time. Providing hides will give your ball python a sense of security it needs. If it doesn't feel secure, it could develop stress and feeding problems.
HEAT
Ball pythons are cold blooded so they rely on external heat that you as the owner will provide. The snake itself will modulate its own heat requirements and therefore need a healthy range of temperatures throughout the enclosure. The warm side of the the enclosure should be between 88-91 F and the cool side between 77-80 F. To keep track of both temperature zones, its best to get a thermometer for each zone so you can keep track of them at all times.
HUMIDITY
Ball pythons don't need special humidity requirements. Ideal humidity in the enclosure should be between 50%-60%. The best way to adjust the humidity is to increase/decrease the size of your water bowl. You can also increase/decrease the amount of ventilation your enclosure receives. Its best to go to your local pet store and purchase a hygrometer to keep track of the humidity at all times. Remember, you don't need to mist your ball python.
LIGHTING
Ball pythons do not need special lighting and will do fine with the lighting in your home.
WATER
Make sure your ball python always has fresh water. You have to take into consideration evaporation of the water. Its best to change every 3-4 days. If the water becomes dirty, change immediately.
CLEANING
It's best to spot clean your enclosure once a week. Do a thorough cleaning once a month. Do this by removing everything out of the enclosure and disinfecting them with an appropriate cleaning solution. The substrate (mulch) should be completely changed once a month.
HANDLING
Ball pythons are known to be very docile. Every now and then, you can get a snake that is a little snippy. Regular handling of these snakes should calm them down. You should never handle your snake for at least 36-48 hours after feeding them. It can disrupt their digestion and can lead to regurgitation. This can also lead to feeding problems later. Its also best not to handle a snake while it's in the process of shedding. The reason for this is their eyes turn blue, greatly diminish their sight. It will become defensive and more likely to strike due to its poor sight.
FEEDING
Ball pythons can feed on mice their entire life. Nutritionally, its best to convert them over to rats as soon as possible. They should be fed 1 time a week with approriately sized food. The food source should be the size of the largest part of the snakes body. As the snake gets older, it's best to feed them frozen/thawed food. The reason for this is any rodent bigger then a fuzzy have developed teeth and can injure your snake.
Ball pythons can be finicky eaters(during winter months). As long as your snake isn't losing weight and remains healthy, there is nothing to worry about. When purchasing a baby ball python from a breeder, they will generally ensure the snake is eating well before selling it to you. To be on the safe side, it's better to feed your snake in a designated feeding enclosure. This way reaching in to handle your snake will not trigger a feeding response and get bit accidentally. NEVER leave a live rodent unattended with your snake.
SHEDDING
You can recognize when your snake is going into shed by 3 markers. First, the eyes will start to turn milky. Second, the belly will turn a pinkish color. And last, the color on the snake will become dull. The last stage is called "being in the blue". After a few days the eyes will clear up and in about 36-48 hours you can expect your snake to shed. Depending on the snakes age, it will shed every 4-6 weeks. With proper humidity in their enclosure, they should not have any problems completely shedding their skin. Always check your snake to make sure all the old skin is off your snake. If your snake is not shedding properly, there are acouple things that can help. Move the water bowl closer to the hot side to bring up the humidity in the enclosure. Decreasing the ventilation of the enclosure can also increase the humidity. You can also soak the snake in warm shallow water during the shedding process(before the actual shedding has begun). Take in consideration what we talked about earlier about handling the snake during this time.
By following these simple rules, you and your ball python will have many years of happy and healthy times together. Enjoy.
ENCLOSURES
The most important thing is to have your enclosure complete and ready when you bring your ball python home. This will ensure your snake will acclimate quickly to its new home without developing stress or health issues. That being said, there are 2 types of enclosures. The first and most popular is a terrarium. The second is a rack system using totes (mostly used by breeders). The size of your enclosure should not exceed 1 1/2 times the length of your snake. It should also not be less than 2/3 the length of the snake. Make sure your lid is secure on your enclosure. If not, they will escape.
SUBSTRATE
Most types of substrates you find in a pet shop will work just fine. The most common are reptile carpet, mulch and even newspaper. You do have to take into consideration is cleaning. When using reptile carpet, it has to be removed and cleaned thoroughly. Its best to have an extra one on hand so you can replace the dirty one with a clean one. most breeders use newspaper for its ease and availibility. I believe using aspen mulch is the way to go. You can spot clean it and being porous it will retain moisture and bolster the humidity. Remember that cedar is not a suitable bedding and is toxic to snakes.
HIDES
Like most snakes, ball pythons like dark secure places to spend most of their time. Providing hides will give your ball python a sense of security it needs. If it doesn't feel secure, it could develop stress and feeding problems.
HEAT
Ball pythons are cold blooded so they rely on external heat that you as the owner will provide. The snake itself will modulate its own heat requirements and therefore need a healthy range of temperatures throughout the enclosure. The warm side of the the enclosure should be between 88-91 F and the cool side between 77-80 F. To keep track of both temperature zones, its best to get a thermometer for each zone so you can keep track of them at all times.
HUMIDITY
Ball pythons don't need special humidity requirements. Ideal humidity in the enclosure should be between 50%-60%. The best way to adjust the humidity is to increase/decrease the size of your water bowl. You can also increase/decrease the amount of ventilation your enclosure receives. Its best to go to your local pet store and purchase a hygrometer to keep track of the humidity at all times. Remember, you don't need to mist your ball python.
LIGHTING
Ball pythons do not need special lighting and will do fine with the lighting in your home.
WATER
Make sure your ball python always has fresh water. You have to take into consideration evaporation of the water. Its best to change every 3-4 days. If the water becomes dirty, change immediately.
CLEANING
It's best to spot clean your enclosure once a week. Do a thorough cleaning once a month. Do this by removing everything out of the enclosure and disinfecting them with an appropriate cleaning solution. The substrate (mulch) should be completely changed once a month.
HANDLING
Ball pythons are known to be very docile. Every now and then, you can get a snake that is a little snippy. Regular handling of these snakes should calm them down. You should never handle your snake for at least 36-48 hours after feeding them. It can disrupt their digestion and can lead to regurgitation. This can also lead to feeding problems later. Its also best not to handle a snake while it's in the process of shedding. The reason for this is their eyes turn blue, greatly diminish their sight. It will become defensive and more likely to strike due to its poor sight.
FEEDING
Ball pythons can feed on mice their entire life. Nutritionally, its best to convert them over to rats as soon as possible. They should be fed 1 time a week with approriately sized food. The food source should be the size of the largest part of the snakes body. As the snake gets older, it's best to feed them frozen/thawed food. The reason for this is any rodent bigger then a fuzzy have developed teeth and can injure your snake.
Ball pythons can be finicky eaters(during winter months). As long as your snake isn't losing weight and remains healthy, there is nothing to worry about. When purchasing a baby ball python from a breeder, they will generally ensure the snake is eating well before selling it to you. To be on the safe side, it's better to feed your snake in a designated feeding enclosure. This way reaching in to handle your snake will not trigger a feeding response and get bit accidentally. NEVER leave a live rodent unattended with your snake.
SHEDDING
You can recognize when your snake is going into shed by 3 markers. First, the eyes will start to turn milky. Second, the belly will turn a pinkish color. And last, the color on the snake will become dull. The last stage is called "being in the blue". After a few days the eyes will clear up and in about 36-48 hours you can expect your snake to shed. Depending on the snakes age, it will shed every 4-6 weeks. With proper humidity in their enclosure, they should not have any problems completely shedding their skin. Always check your snake to make sure all the old skin is off your snake. If your snake is not shedding properly, there are acouple things that can help. Move the water bowl closer to the hot side to bring up the humidity in the enclosure. Decreasing the ventilation of the enclosure can also increase the humidity. You can also soak the snake in warm shallow water during the shedding process(before the actual shedding has begun). Take in consideration what we talked about earlier about handling the snake during this time.
By following these simple rules, you and your ball python will have many years of happy and healthy times together. Enjoy.